Over the years our customers have asked numerous questions on how to train their puppy into a successful hunting dog. Our training methods have been developed from experience over the years with OUR BREEDING some techniques may or may not work for you as all dogs and trainers are individuals.

Topics will include but not limit to puppy socialization, veterinary care, products, and field work.

This page will be dedicated to answering these questions through video, photos and explanation. As the page grows we will include links to specific topics.

Please feel free to email us if you have any topics you would like us to post.



The first step is to acquire a puppy....

Purchase your pup out of proven lines, forefathers and mothers that are athletes and have proven to pass their superior genetics to their offspring. "Proven lines" is not only hunting ability but also health. Look for certified hips in their 3 generation pedigree.



A few simple rules to remember:

Let a puppy be a puppy, NO PRESSURE should be applied to the dog in the field we are only putting the pup in a position to succeed.

Dogs and puppies learn by association, the better structure they have around them the better your training success will be.



8-12 weeks old

HOME: At this age we are working on establishing a routine, take puppy out often, every 2 hours at first and praise when they relieve themselves. We use a porch potty on the deck, it pinpoints a specific location speeding up housetraining.

*If you do not want your dog on the couch or bed don't ever let them on the couch or bed even when they are a small puppy.

FIELD: Take puppy out in the woods, they will follow you so don't walk on paths. Go through brush piles, over logs and through weed growth. Do this 3 times a week not more than 15 minutes a time. We run the puppies exclusively in the woods until 6 months of age to build dexterity, agility and enhance nose quality.

Training sessions should be more like play sessions, positive reinforcement only, don't be discouraged as puppy can read your expressions. Leave the sessions with puppy happy and wanting more.






Teach puppy not to bite, do this by folding thier lip onto their canine tooth and apply pressure when they bite.

Teach puppy not to jump up, do this by applying a negative (push them down or squeeze paws) with a command when they do.

Work on retrieving with your pup, first inside in a hallway then outside on a check cord. Use their favorite toy or a small bumper with quail wings attached. Keep sessions short and fun with lots of positive reinforcement, leave puppy wanting more. Never overwork a young pup as it will have negative effects.



3-4 months old

Your pup should start leading instead of following you now is the time to introduce birds (we use bobwhite quail) in the woods.

After puppy has established "prey drive" and is driving out searching for birds when the bird is flushed and puppy is chasing fire a blank pistol (we use a 209 primer pistol) The idea is to have puppy associate birds and gunfire together. If puppy ignores the sound and continues after the bird continue firing during sessions, if puppy startles take a step back and establish more prey drive on birds.


3-4 months old

On the hottest days we intorduce pups to water, usually they just get wet but occasionally you will have one who can just do it. Often times this is contributed with having a bold/fearless temperament.

6 months old

Puppy is now comfortable with birds and gunfire, now is the time to introduce birds in the field, we start with the quail but quickly move to pigeons in a bird launcher to steady puppy to flush. When puppy has established steady to flush start shooting birds, puppies should NATURALLY retrieve a shot bird with the retrieving training you have done at home.








Steve & Cristin Broughton


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